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­By Dan Dvorak
Also appearing: and


DvorakCarburetionBannerThis dissertation is the beginning of a long series intended to become a book-Dvorak reveals ALL the secrets he’s learned and applied throughout the years.  Over 20 time NHRA National Record Holder with MAX Wedge machines, this particular offering is geared towards the getting the maximum performance out of the max wedge intake system, HOWEVER, most of the principles and settings apply to the majority of all other multi and single four barrel applications including hot street.

GREETINGS SPORTS FANS AND SCIENCE MAJORS ALIKE… DVORAK HERE….making good on promise number one, the revelation of all I know on calibration, modification and general straightening up of production quality aftermarket CARTER, EDELBROCK and WEBER type carburetors and their specific use on the CHRYSLER MAX WEDGE (or equivalent A&A) CROSS RAM INTAKE MANIFOLD.

Many of the items covered herein will be applicable to most other applications because this is a state of mind after all, and when we can actually SEE some of the problems, you cannot only use some of the things we cover on your big block or small block single and dual carb apps but you can go even farther and come up with your own ‘secrets.’
Remember, these carburetors are made by the tens of thousands and the dies, molds, cutters and things, wear out and/or get sloppy. Some things are designed sloppy so that there is a limited liability; like throttle shafts. The manufacturer sure doesn’t want those things ever hanging up at WOT! (Like the outboard Holley 6-Packs did…). We will show you how to tighten those up too without endangering your tow car.

So, let’s get to it then.
We will start at the beginning… for those who just want to get their ‘ride’ running well, perform respectably, without very much hassle, expense or time consumption. We will also assume NEW late carburetors, Edelbrock/Carter and older Carters with the thin throttle blades and large accelerator pump; 600/625 CFM and 750CFM. They can have any throttle linkage on them since we are going to change that out anyway; most, no doubt, will have the factory original Chevrolet dinosaur linkage. (I have a huge pile of that stuff if you know anyone that wants it.)

Disassemble the carb completely, taking care to not lose the ball or weight under the shooter. Pull the jets and discard. This is a good time to look at all the gaskets under the four boosters and shooters to see that they are not curled up and misaligned, that the holes are aligned properly and they are absolutely flat. These are great carburetors. There is almost never a need for a carb renew kit or gaskets since these parts never go bad. They never become submerged in fuel and they last forever, almost, so most of the time all that is necessary is some spare stuff and some TLC. However, when they sit with old fuel like our sample carb here, especially fuel + ethanol, (napalm, which is just jelly gasoline) all bets are off. They’ll need to go to a carb restorer like Scott Smith at